Destinations: Bayfield

This issue we’re going to Bayfield, Wisconsin. Yes, the one on Lake Superior. Yes, it seems like a kazillion miles and half a continent away! I never said it would be easy. I’m just saying you’ll want to find a way to get there, because that’s where you’ll find some of the most beautiful cruising grounds in the country, counting both coasts and South Carolina’s Waccamaw River. Bear with me here.

Speaking of bears, one of the 22 Apostle Islands, Stockton, has the largest bear population per square paw in North America. I’m not saying that’s a big draw, it’s just a fact. Another fun fact is that you will not have to worry about crowds when you visit Bayfield and the Apostle Islands National Seashore. Less than 1% of this area of the Great Lakes is populated with people. Wolves? Well, yes, but they’re shy. Okay, no more fun facts for a few minutes.

Here’s what you do. You come up from Lake Michigan, or Erie, or Huron, or whatever connecting Great Lake you choose, then filter through the Soo Locks at Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan, into Lake Superior. Follow the south shore across Whitefish Bay, the Pictured Rocks, and Grand Island. Grand Marais makes a great stop in here, as do Marquette and Houghton. Bayfield’s next. Along the way, marvel at the clarity of the water (27 feet in the Apostles). You can even see shipwrecks—which, by the way, is a subject you cannot hope to avoid when talking to anyone on the Great Lakes. 

But let’s talk about Bayfield, which has a year-round population of 600 hearty souls and is just adorable, in an end-of-the-world, are-we-in-the-Yukon-yet kind of way. It’s small (obviously), charming, highly walkable, and invariably only a few steps away from a restaurant serving fresh Superior whitefish, jumbo-sized burgers, and local beer. It has a delightful bookstore, Honest Dog Books, owned by a former musher and her husband, and an imposing Maritime Museum. (Yes, ask them about shipwrecks; they have a swell video presentation.) Wisconsin is known for its friendly taverns, and here again you won’t be disappointed. I personally encourage you to order Wisconsin cheese curds paired with an ice-cold ale at Morty’s Pub. 

Importantly, Bayfield has three cat-friendly marinas. Which should you choose? I am always partial to the downtown middle-of-everything choice, and I’ve been very happy at Bayfield Marina. But the alternatives, just outside of town, Port Superior and Pikes Marina, are excellent alternatives, especially if you need work done on your boat. The final choice, and one that I’d recommend for at least a couple of days, if you can get the reservations, is Madeline Island Yacht Club, which gives you easy access to the Apostles’ only town, La Pointe. 

No matter which you choose, the islands are only a Paul Bunyan stone’s throw away. For reference, Madeline Island, which is the only one that is not part of the National Seashore because it’s settled, is about three miles from Bayfield. The islands themselves are generally two miles from each other. They range in size from three-acre Gull Island to grown-up Madeline Island at 24 square miles.

What makes these islands so special? Made up of reddish brown sandstone, time and innumerable storms have sculpted them into dramatic sandscapes of cliffs, caves, arches, sand spits, and miles of beaches. Combining that scenery with the remarkably clear water I mentioned earlier creates a downright ethereal experience. And at night—oh, the stars!

Anchorages are created in the narrow ribbon of shallows that ring many of the islands. You can often anchor near shore in five to 10 feet, always remembering to avoid lee shores and always, always, always staying alert to changing weather for which the lake is famous. Okay, infamous. A number of the islands feature rough National Park Service docks, which can be used to get ashore to walk miles of trails, visit many of the islands’ seven lighthouses and take advantage of the many berry bushes in season. (Remember, though, bears like berries too.)

Here are a few favorites, mine and others:

Madeline Island for the little town, the beaches, and the views.

Devils Island for its sea caves on the north shore. Anchor carefully among the rocks and take your dinghy or kayak to paddle in and out of the arches. It’s enchanting! Then walk to visit the lighthouse.

Raspberry Island for the beauty of its lighthouse. You can use the NPS work dock if it’s open to visit.

Stockton Island (yes, the one with the bears) is one of my favorites because you can anchor on either side of its south-end peninsula, called Presque Isle. Julien bay is good in west and northwest winds and has a nice beach.  With a northeast wind, choose the other side of the peninsula. Presque Isle has trails, blueberries, and a park dock. Two miles west, you’ll find good protection, except from south winds, in Quarry Bay, which also has a campground.

Outer Island because you will feel that you’ve reached the end of the world. And you nearly have.

Finally, a few last notes. For more superior Superior cruising, follow the shore west around to Duluth, Two Harbors, Isle Royale, and then lose yourself along the improbably beautiful rocky, hilly Canadian shore. Eventually, you’ll find yourself back at Sault Ste. Marie. Then you can go home. If you’re short of time, you can charter a 40-foot Lagoon in Bayfield from Superior Charter. 

But before you do anything at all, rustle up a copy of Bonnie Dahl’s Superior Way, The Cruising Guide to Lake Superior, and a lifetime supply of bug repellant. Then you’ll really be ready for business.  

MHPS Winter 2026