Antigua Sailing Week has a built in lay-day, which is a perfect opportunity to venture ashore. Sure there’s boat work to be done and you could use a nap…but when else are you going to have this chance?
The Famous Beaches
Antigua is famous for having 365 beaches, one for every day of the year. This one, overlooking Falmouth Harbour has some nice shady areas to escape the sun and buoys to separate the swimming area from boat traffic. (Don’t forget to bring cash, there is a convenient and clean restroom across the street, but it’s $1 to use it.) Antigua Sailing Week hosts events throughout the regatta, and this year’s lay day featured an afternoon beach party here, making for a great opportunity for crews to socialize with one another.
Historical Sites
Antigua has a rich and complex history, beginning with the arrival of the indigenous Amerindians, then Arawaks and Caribs from the mainland. It’s worth taking a tour of the island and having an expert show you around. You’ll see sights like Betty’s Hope, an abandoned sugar plantation, which stands in ruins on the northeast side of the island. After nearly 300 years in operation, portions of the original mill and buildings are still standing. Plaques describe the operation to visitors, recalling a somber and painful truth about this beautiful island’s past. Though the enslaved workers were emancipated in 1834, they continued to work on the plantation for generations. The mill was ultimately sold in 1944, after having been owned by the same family for about 250 years.
Betty’s Hope is also home to two of the island’s approximately 100 remaining sugar mills, which were used to press the sugar cane grown on the island until 1921 when extraction transitioned to the Central Sugar Factory. The mills can be seen from vantage points across the island, and many have been restored and repurposed.
Antigua’s Geology
If you’re into geology, head even further east to Devil’s Bridge, a natural rock formation that stretches over the sea. Walking across it is not permitted, and there is no easy way out of the tumultuous waves below, so visitors are advised to exercise caution. Afterwards head to the south side of the island for a short hike to see Hercules’ Pillars, which tower over the sea.
The island is a mix of volcanic rock and limestone, resulting in unusual erosion patterns and many memorable rock formations. Settlers on the island made good use of the island’s sole band of green limestone in their architecture, and in the communities along the line, you can still see intricate white and green stone pattern work in the church facades.
Local Flavor
The food scene in Antigua is vibrant. Produce is grown and a variety of livestock are raised on the island, making for a specialized local cuisine. Even as a vegetarian, it was not difficult to find delicious food with local influence, thanks in part to the island’s plant-based Rastafari community. Fried pumpkin fritters, plantain, rice and beans, fresh mango, Antigua black pineapple….And though they weren’t on my plate, the fish, of course, are the stars of the show.
A British Flair
Antigua takes great pride in its cricket players. You can’t miss the massive modern stadium on the road in from the airport. If you can swing it, go see a match. After all, cricket, the Anglican church, and driving on the left side of the road are pretty much the last vestiges of British culture left on the island. 70% of their economy is based on tourism and, being as they’re a lot closer to the States than the UK, American power outlets and currency are pretty much universal.
Here’s a tip: even when there isn’t a cricket match underway, people trek out to the stadium just for the food vendors. It’s well worth the stop.
Safety Preparedness
The country is quite safe, though you will see quite heavy security around the resorts. Violent crime is not common, but it’s always worth taking reasonable precautions against pickpocketing when traveling. Because of the church’s strong religious influence on the island, same-sex marriage is not legal and views are generally conservative, so queer couples should be aware.
The island is affected by hurricanes, the most recent and severe being Irma in 2017. Rebuilding efforts are largely complete, but don’t be surprised to see seemingly abandoned buildings across the island. Many of them are actually works in progress not ruins. The Antiguan way is to build in stages, starting with what you can (eg. a foundation and walls) and then continue to add to it as you can (roof, windows, doors, paint…). This makes housing significantly more accessible for younger people, but after the high polish of the resorts, it might appear a little run down to the outsider’s eye.
Getting Back to Nature
Driving the Green Corridor will show visitors the wilder side of the island. Lush vegetation and cooler temperatures give a distinct rainforest feel. Crops like the Antigua black pineapple (which has dark green skin when young but is likely named for the black volcanic soil its grown in not the plant’s color) can be seen in small roadside patches, and mangoes hang heavy from the trees.
A car or taxi is the best way to get around, and though someplace might look walking distance on a map, the cars drive fast on narrow roads, so be cautious. There are, however, several good hiking spots on the island, and from English Harbour, there’s even one path that will take you to Windward Bay Beach where at some times of year you can hear whales underwater.
In Conclusion…
Antigua is a beautiful, vibrant place with something to interest any visitor, from the relaxing resorts to zip line adventure tours to Shirley Heights and the world’s longest continuously running barbecue. The harbors are strikingly beautiful, the food scene is excellent, and island is rich with history and remarkable natural features.
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